Santa Maria Maggiore – The Papal Basilica where Pope Francis is buried

With the recent death of Pope Francis and his decision to be buried not in the Vatican, but at Santa Maria Maggiore, it seemed like a good time to spotlight this impressive basilica.

Santa Maria Maggiore is one of Rome’s four papal basilicas. The others are Saint Peter’s, Saint John Lateran and Saint Paul Without The Walls. All four, under the Lateran Treaty of 1929, were provided with extra-territoriality. So technically, you are crossing a border when you walk into each of these places of worship.

More importantly, if you walk through the Holy Doors (Porta Santa) during a Jubilee year for all four papal basilicas, tradition has it all your sins are forgiven. Since 2025 is a Jubilee year, and I’ve only walked through one door so far, I’ve got some work to do!

The original church was built by Pope Sixtus III (432-440), financed by a wealthy Roman patrician who chose the spot based on a vivid dream he had. In his dream, the figure of Mary came to him, surrounded by a blinding snow storm.

Snow in August!

For this reason, each August 5, Santa Maria Maggiore celebrates the event with a summer snowstorm – reenacted with soap bubbles, since snow is rare in Rome in winter – let alone in the 100 degree plus temperatures of August.

But if you’re in Rome in August, it’s an event to attend!

There are wonderful examples of early Christian art in this basilica. So much so, that I spent a lot of time when my children were young and needed to sketch examples of early Christian art for school projects. The nave boasts some of the oldest Christian mosaics in Rome, with a  series of panels from the fifth century.

The basilica was further expanded by future popes, all eager to pay tribute to Mary. The brilliant coffered ceilings were created with the first gold to come from Peru, gifted to Pope Alexander VI (a Spaniard, the infamous Borgia pope) by “Los reyes catolicos” Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain. The elaborate ceiling bears the shields of the Borgia family.

The beautiful Sforza chapel was thought to be created on the designs of Michelangelo.

The Pauline chapel is also called the Borghese chapel – memorilizing the family of Pope Paul V who had it commissioned in 1611.

The altarpiece is Mary with the baby Jesus, which was the preferred place to worship of Pope Francis, who came frequently to pray in this basilica, particularly after many of his trips, and on his recent return from his long hospital stay.

It is here that his tomb is being prepared, where he will be laid to rest today, after the grand ceremony at St Peter’s.

No doubt, this spot will be a place many will visit for then rest of this Jubilee year, especially to see te resting place of Pope Francis (1936-2025).

I pass this basilica frequently, and I always enjoy its facade, and the way it is illuminated each evening. I’ve had many early morning starts where I have passed this pretty facade and it’s started me off in a good mood.

Also interetsing that Santa Maria Maggiore stands at one end of Via Merulana, while another Papal Basilica, San Giovanni in Laterano sits on the opposite end of the same street.

This beautiful Papal Basilica is well worth a visit on your next trip to Rome.