Paris is always a good idea…

I was in Paris for a weekend last month. Although I’ve been many times to Paris, it’s always a pleasure to get back.

I left early on a Friday, and had three days in the City of Lights, and I was eager to get in as much as I could – great walks, music, art, books, friends and  – bien sûr – great food and wine. It is Paris, after all.

I loved my hotel at a great location in St Germain. It made a fabulous base to go out and explore.

Notre Dame de Paris

My first stop was was Notre Dame. The devastating fire that struck the medieval cathedral back in 2019 had kept this closed for years, and it had only been unveiled recently, with a grand ceremony attracting world leaders. Of course, I was curious to see the renovations I’d only seen on television. I was truly moved having the chance to (re-)visit this great cathedral after its reopening. It was odd to be in this familiar medieval cathedral, where everything appeared shiny and “new”.

I especially loved seeing the chapel dedicated to the pompiers – the firemen, who worked bravely and tirelessly when tragedy struck. The display showed a display of where the  flames engulfed the roof, the fire helmets word by the fireman and a replica of a crucifix melded with the ash from that horrific event. It was a moving visit – and I look forward to returning.

Shakespeare and Company

The famed English-language bookstore in Paris needs no introduction, but I’ll link into my earlier post on its illustrious past as a haven to writers and readers – and the general expat community in Paris.

It’s always fun to stop by. If the weather had been better, I would have lingered over coffee at one of its café tables.

That will be for next time…

Paris Opera Bastille

I walked over to the Bastille, enjoying views over the Place des Vosges and having a spot of dinner along the way. I had opera tickets during my stay and left enough time to get into an opera and to find my seat in a 2000+ seat opera house.

I had tickets to see a Czech opera, Leos Janacek’s La Petite Renard russée (The Clever Little Vixen). Weirdly, this was one of the few operas I hadn’t seen when I was living in Prague and making an effort to see all of the Czech operas. AND I discovered what a mistake this was! When my kids were young and I was working so hard (and without success) to get them excited about opera, this is the opera to which I should have taken them.

It’s a charming tale about the interactions between a gamekeeper and the forest creatures, and this production was cleverly staged, with wonderful costumes and wonderful performances. I loved it – and my sons would have enjoyed it, too, when they were younger. (I will be better prepared for opera “indoctrination” with eventual grandchildren…)

The opera itself is – huge. Acoustics are great, but I have to admit I’m not a huge fan of modern opera houses. I know it was built in the 1980s, but a slight nod to Parisian elegance would have been nice. That said, the opera quality was fabulous, so I’ll certainly be back.

The Louvre

So the next morning I had tickets to The Louvre. Gone are the days where you could just pop in. The lines are endless now (even in January). But the ticket system works well and you line up for your allotted time. I had a 11:00 am entrance time, and planned on staying until the 6pm closing, which I did!

The museum is massive – and there is no way on earth that you will see everything. But I certainly did my best trying to do just that!

I’d been here multiple times, so I was glad to pick up my audioguide – en francais! -and to enjoy my time here in this temple of art. The French hall with its enormous paintings – including the famous Jacques-Louis David of Napoléon’s incoronation, is always one of my first stops. The Italian collection is extensive (much of it carried off from Italy by aforementioned Napoléon).

Admittedly, I did not have the patience to wait among the throngs for the Mona Lisa, but I’ve seen it many times before, so contented myself with my glimpse from behind thne Madding Crowds. Nike, The Winged Victory, was another favorites, as was Venus Demilo and the medieval foundations of the Louvre.

I also enjoyed goingto the former residence of Napoléon III – in the Richlieu wing. Looots of red damask and gold leaf, but I was there during Paris Fashion Week and there was an impressive exhibition of period-inspired luxury French fashion. While it worked well throughout the museum, I especially enjoyed it in these opulent halls.

After the musuem I met up at Marly Café, with its gorgeous views over the Louvre and its pyramid, with a college classmate and sorority sister.

I hadn’t seen my old classmate in years. She used to live in Germany while I was living and working in Prague, so we used to visit one another, but somehow we lost touch when we both moved. How fabulous to meet again – decades later – when both in Paris, where she and her family now live.

I love when you can just pick up where you left off years ago – although we did chat over dinner and late into the night. So much fun!

Breakfast at Angelina

The next morning, I met up with a French friend of mine from my Masters program in Milan. We see one another every few years, either in France or Italy, but a few years had gone by this last time.

This café near the Tuilleries – how did I not discover it before? – was a real find, and the hot chocolate to die for. Chocolate and a huge catch-up in this elegant café – what a great way to start a Sunday morning!

Opéra Garnier

Although the Opéra Bastille is more practical for modern productions, the Opéra Garnier is so much more elegant and romantic. Next time, I’m going to a performace here (although it is primarily used for ballet today).

It was built between 1861-1875 during the reign of Napoléon III and it is …. so over the top, and, at the same time, such perfection. The tour is self-guided and the audiotour is worth picking up to learn more about its history.

The opera was constructed by Charles Garnier, who, when criticized by Napoléon’s wife, Eugénie, claimed (quite cleverly) that the eclectic architectural style was actually the “Napoléon III style”.

The opera also derives much of its fame from Gaston Leroux’s 1910 novel The Phantom of The Opera (and the popular Broadway musical of the same name). And no, I did not spot the phantom, but I wouldn’t want to be locked alone there at night…

When I was visiting, there was a fascinating exhibition on te “jewels” of opera performances – fun to see costumes and bijouterie from famous performances from the past.

Jacquemart-André Museum

I walked from the opera to the Boulevard Haussmann until I reached the wonderful Jacquemart-André Museum. I had been to this wonderfu museum in the past, but was happy to revisit. I unwittingly got caught ina  long line because it was the final days of an exhibition from Rome’s Villa Borghese – a collection I know quite well.

However, in the In for a penny, in for a pound principle, I decided to stick it out – since it wa too late to decamp to another museum before my return flight that evening. Will definitely return at a less crowded period next time, but it was still fun to be back and to see the set collection, while also admiring well-known pieces from the Villa Borghese the ones Napoléon miraculously didn’t get his claws on. : )

Caravage – Caravaggio “on tour” in Paris.

Soon enough, it was time to hop on tne metro, return to my hotel and to RER it back to the airport.

What a fabulous weekend. Art, opera, culture, architecture, atmosphere long Parisain walks, great food and wine and catch-ups with friends in one of the most beautiful, elegant and romantic cities in thne world. What more could a girl ask for? Yes, Paris is – sans doute – always a good idea.