Corn, cattle and country music: Driving cross-country to Kansas

In August, I was back in the US for holidays. As is my wont when back in my country for a vacation, I rented a car and took a looooong cross-country trip.

In doing so, I managed to hit the last of the continental states I was missing – Kansas – to bring my states visited count up to 48. Alaska and Hawaii – you’re next!

Cross-country trips always remind me how crazy big our country is. But I had a great time driving 5280 kilometers/ 3300 miles. Half of that with my younger son, half of it on my lonesome … belting away to country songs (and beyond) on my radio as I gazesìd out at cattle, corn and lots of prarie land…

Here’s a bit of what I saw along the way:

Cheat Lake, West Virginia

I admit it, everytime I cross the state line, I find myself belting out John Denver’s West Virginia anthem “Country Roads”. I’ve long given up trying to control myself.

My son and I love Cooper Rock State Forest, and had planned on stretching our legs in this picturesque spot, but road construction got in the way of our plans. Instead, we took a detour to see Cheat Lake, which we usually view from up on high, perched at the lookout at Cooper Rock.

We didn’t have much time there, but we enjoyed seeing Cheat Lake up close … even if we’ll definitely be back to gorgeous Cooper Rock one day. And on this (extermely flat) trip, this was the last we saw of mountains.

Denison University, Granville, Ohio

We had been out here back in May for my older son’s graduation, but when we found ourselves a few miles from campus, my younger son and I decided to take a short detour to visit the sleepy campus in tbe summer months, before classes started and students returned.

It was idyllic seeing the campus in this tiny town in such a quiet state. We even came across a friendly deer, who couldn’t have cared less if people we observing him and taking his photo. My son and  had a nice walk around (a deserted) camous before climbing back in our car for a long drive.

Indianapolis, Indiana

I’ve driven by Indiana’s capital city multiple times, but have never before taken the time to drive oin, park the car and explore. But the sky was blue and the sun strong, and my son and I decided to nip in and see the town.

It’s a small but pleasant town, with a picturesque river walk and the headquarters of the NCAA, the collegiate organization that governs college sports. We took a little time to explore the NCAA college hall of fame, learning some interesting trivia about the history of college sports.

It’s a small but pleasant walking city, fun to explore on a perfect summer day. And a great way to strech our legs on our long, long drive.

Terre Haute, Indiana

We only stopped off briefly here. Up until this point, we were following the Cumberland road, the old road built in the early 1800s, running from Washington, DC, through Cumberland, Maryland and on to Terre Haute. Later, this would pick up western highways, making Terre Haute the “crossroads” of the country.

We’re beyond the days when “all roads lead to Indiana”, so today it’s a quiet town. But it was a nice discovery to learn my favorite basketball player as a child and young Celtics fan – Larry Bird – got his start in college basketball here. The town even sports a Larry Bird Museum. Sadly, we didn’t have enough time to visit. Next time!

Konza Praririe, Kansas

This was my first praririe visit – and it was impressive. The Konza Prairie is managed by nearby Kansas State University in Manhattan, Kansas (yes, I laughed, too, at the name). It was wonderfully picturesque and there’s something magical about watching then tall prairie grasses blowing in the wind and the sounds and colors of the prariries – seemingly stretching as far as the eye can see.

And yes, my knowledge of prairies comes from gobbling up the series Little House on The Prairie as a kid, both the books and the television series. The Ingalls family settled on the prairies south of here, so I wasn’t so far off the mark. But it was beautiful to see the Kansas prairies for the first time in my life on this visit.

Topeka, Kansas

So the capital city of Kansas wasn’t exactly sending out “bright lights, big city” vibes. It was pretty deserted the day we were there, but we did find parking easily (!!) and had a good walk around. Made it to the state capital building and up and down the main strip, with quite a few interesting buildings from the turn of the century.

The most interesting visit for us was to the site of the Brown v Board of Education. This was the landmark 1954 Supreme Court case that overturned the “separate, but equal” clause of Plessy v Ferguson and finally put an end to racially segregated schools. A super interesting site and exhibition within the Monroe School where Oliver Brown began this important case of US Constitutional Law studied by all students in school.

Manhattan, Kansas

Since we had just come from our apartment in Manhattan – that one on the east coast – my son and I were rather amused to visit Manhattan, Kansas. Spoiler alert: slightly different from the one in the Big Apple.

Still, this was a cute college town – home to the enormous Kansas State University, the land grant college established in 1863 that houses almost 20,000 students.

We had a nice walk around the town and the pretty campus – and its impressive football stadium. Still in its summer slumber, I imagine it would be lively when campus in is in full swing, and its bars and restaurants are filled with college students.

A nice walking town. Though perhaps not one that never sleeps…

Council Grove, Kansas

This was a quick stop off on our way to the prairies reserve, but we stopped off to stretch our legs in this cute, small town, had excellent sandwiches, and enjoyed visiting the adorable indie bookshop in the center of town.

This made for a good short visit on our long day of driving.

Tallgrass Prairies National Reserve, Kansas

This national preserve was an amazing find. It has been a protected area since was established in 1996 to preserve a small part of the 170 million acres of tallgrass prariries that once covered America, but has since been developed.

Only 4% of those prairies still exist today – and most of that in this protected area in the Flint Hills of eastern Kansas. I would love to return here to dedicate more time to the numerous trails that dot this 11,000 acres of tallgrass prairies. And, if the descriptions are to be believed, I’d love to get here at the time of year when some of these prairie grasses grow to a whopping eight feet tall.

It was wonderful to hear the praririe grasses swaying in the wind, and to see the herd of buffalo grazing on these idyllic plains. Living in Italy, I thought I was used to strong sun, but prairie sun took both my son and me by surprise – come armed with hats and sunscreen.

A fabulous visit – and a worthwhile stop-off on your visit out west.

Wichita, Kansas

Wichita is Kansas’ biggest city and  it seems to be filled with nice bars and restaurants. Unfortunately, we were there around noon on a day when it was about 106 degrees, so we were enjoying an almost deserted town all on our own.

Sadly, we didn’t have time to hang out until the cooler, early evening hours when I’m sure the crowds start emerging, but this definiteley merits a return visit.

Dodge City, Kansas

Haha. As fans of National Lampoon’s Vacation – and travellers who were pretty much following the Griswolds’ route, a stop in Dodge City was a given.

How were we to know that the Old West was a Disneyesque invention that locked its doors before 7 pm?  Those poor cowboys or train bandits who wanted to go to the saloons to order their whisky after 6 pm…

It … er …. left a bit to be desired. We saved our $4o entrance fee and looked in from outside- then enjoyed our rib dinner before driving on that evening. “Yellowbelly”…

Garden City, Kansas

This was the the west of Kansas – with nothing but corn and cattle (and country – the only station I could pick up for miles!) surrounding it where I “abandoned” my youngest.

Luckily, the steaks here are amazing, as we discovered. And great track and field facilities, so at least my favorite Kansas Roman was happy.

Washington, DC or bust

The drive back was lonely, after all the great company along the way. Country accompanied me all through Kansas – no hope for anything else! Made it back to DC in two intensive days of driving: Kansas, Missouri, Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Maryland, Virginia … and finally, the nations’s capital.

I channeled my long-haul trucker soul the entire trip. But as a daydreamer and indifferent singer who enjoys belting out to the radio, I enjoyed every minute of it. Although, truth be told, I was relieved to drop off that rental.

A massive drive – but still lots of fun. One of my many cross-country US trips, but certainly not the last!